Tore di Pisa. - New York, New York - restaurant reviews

19 West 44th Street; (212) 398-4400

If the March Hare were put in charge of urban renewal for the famous leaning tower, this is what he might have created: a room both oversized and welcoming, deliberately scaled too big and at competing angles, with a looming clock that always lets you know what time it is, but possessed of an atmosphere so welcoming and cheerily askew you can't help but leave a little late.

However, the kitchen's often right on time. A calf's liver to drool over, a completely guilt-ridden tenderloin stuffed with mozzarella and porcini mushrooms, a roasted poussin brightly spiked by currants and apricots, and grilled calamari with pesto - enough with the fried. The fried artichokes, however, are the best since Sandro's closed. Mussel soup is flavorful and almost crisp; the spaghetti with shrimp and crushed red pepper is brisk, though it could be more bracing; the poppy-seed tuna is a little flat when cooked rare (better a little more done); but the tuna tartare has the enlivening boost of ginger.

The most extraordinary dish Torre di Pisa serves, however, is - God help me, I can't believe I'm saying this - tiramisu. You have never, ever tasted tiramisu anywhere in this country that is anything like this; not a cake, barely a custard, rich in marscapone, light on the wine, it is sunshine and lollipops and whiskers on kittens. It's the Colosseum; it's witchcraft. The next time I feel ill, it may replace the chicken soup. Better yet, I'll have them both and forget about the TheraFlu.

COPYRIGHT 1997 Brant Publications, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2000 Gale Group