On a roll!

Making vegetarian sushi at home is easier than you might think.

Miniature studies in contrast--dark wraps of nori seaweed encircling sweet brown rice and brightly colored fillings--Japanese rolled sushi succeeds in pleasing the eye, nose and palate all at once. Although most people think of raw fish when they think "sushi," the rolls (also known as nori rolls and maki-zushi) can be made with avocado, carrot, spinach, tofu and other vegetarian ingredients.

The two essential elements of rolled sushi are nori, thin sheets of edible seaweed that are toasted for crunchiness and flavor, and sticky rice sweetened with rice wine. The roll is cut into bite-size pieces and served with a dipping sauce that can be either mild or spicy. Because the basic ingredients are virtually fat-free, vegetarian sushi rolls are a naturally low-fat dish, even if you use avocado in the filling.

They also are one of the easiest forms of sushi to make at home. Even if your first attempts lack the finesse of a professional sushi chef, they're likely to be attractive and tasty; they make great party food. Serve these rolls with the dipping sauce, pickled ginger and green tea.

Vegetable-Filled Rolled Sushi

MAKES 24 ROLLS DAIRY-FREE You can prepare these rolls up to one day ahead. Do not cut the completed rolls; wrap them in plastic and cut just before serving. For easy assembly you'll need a bamboo rolling mat available at specialty cookware shops and Asian markets.

4 to 5 Tbs. rice vinegar
1 to 2 Tbs. superfine sugar
3 cups cooked short-grain brown rice
2 green onions (white part only),
minced
2 Tbs. toasted sesame seeds
4 sheets nori (see glossary)

Assorted fillings: mashed yams sprinkled with soy sauce; cooked spinach with toasted sesame seeds; thinly sliced cucumber, bell pepper and/or carrot soaked in balsamic vinegar; avocado; minced fresh cilantro; thinly sliced pickled radish; watercress or radish sprouts; umeboshi plum paste

In large glass bowl, mix vinegar and sugar. Add rice in fourths, stirring well after each addition. Stir in green onions and sesame seeds.

Hold a sheet of nori with tongs and toast by waving it above an open flame, or place it in a frying pan over high heat until crisp and fragrant. Place nori, shiny side down, on a sushi mat or dish towel. With fingertips, spread approximately 3/4 cup rice over nori to make a thin layer, leaving 1/2 inch around edges uncovered. Make a lengthwise groove in center of rice; place filling in groove.

Lift edge of mat or towel; roll nori away from you, tucking firmly as you go and taking care not to catch mat or towel in roll. When rolled, slightly moisten edge of nori; press to seal.

Place roll, seam side down, on a firm surface and cut into 6 pieces with a sharp, moistened knife. Serve with Sesame-Miso Sauce (recipe follows).

PER ROLL WITHOUT EXTRA FILLINGS: 50 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 1G TOTAL FAT (0 SAT. FAT); 10G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 2MG SOD.; 0 FIBER.

Sesame-Miso Sauce

MAKES 3/4 CUP DAIRY-FREE 30

Our version of sushi dipping sauce is on the mild side. For an extra kick, add 1/2 to 1 teaspoon powdered wasabi (green-colored Japanese horseradish) to the sauce.

1/2 cup rice vinegar (see glossary)
1/4 cup vegetable broth
2 Tbs. miso
2 Tbs. sugar
Sliced green onions for garnish

In small bowl, mix all ingredients except green onion. Cover and chill until ready to use. Garnish with green onions just before serving.

PER TABLESPOON: 22 CAL.; 1G PROT.; 0 TOTAL FAT; (0 SAT. FAT); 4G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 187MG SOD.; 0 FIBER.

RELATED ARTICLE: How to Make Rolled Sushi

1 Spread rice over nori to make a thin layer. Make a crosswise grove in center of rice; place filling in groove.

2 Lift edge of mat; begin rolling nori away from you.

3 Tuck firmly as you go, taking care not to catch mat or towel in roll.

4 When rolled, slightly moisten edge of nori; press to seal.

5 Place roll, seam side down, on a firm surface. Cut into pieces and serve.

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